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Is Couture Week The Only True Fashion Week?

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Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture - FendiPhoto: Wenn
If you listen very carefully, you should be to hear a unanimous yawn.

The yawn is coming from fashion designers all over the world who are exhausted from trying to meet customer demands for off the-runway products. That is with the exception of Parisian couturiers who are saying, “to hell with that!”

But if this season’s Couture Week taught us nothing else, it’s that couturiers are hell bent on maintaining the integrity of exclusive luxury fashion. This Couture Week wasn’t an avant-garde spectacle of artistic expression, so much as it was a doubling down on the brand’s aesthetics in staunch opposition to the See Now-Buy Now wave sweeping over the rest of the industry.

 

kendall-jenner-haute-couture-instagramPhoto: Instagram 

Let’s take a step back.

Technically, couture fashion was created to service those who had the money to pay for exclusively made garments. Another way for the Haves to separate themselves from the Have Nots, it can be argued that couture is the only remaining pure form of artistic fashion.

Hear me out. Couturiers are not at the mercy of mass consumers and their fickle buying habits. The market for their bespoke pieces is small, in comparison, but those customers spend much more money than the typical shopper, which is what keeps them afloat.

According to Women’s Wear Daily, the French fashion business provides some 500,000 jobs and generates 125 billion euros. That’s over $130 billion in revenues; 40 percent of them achieved at export, and numbers support the suggestion that there’s a robust international demand for French apparel and leather goods.  In short, Parisian designers are not on the struggle train, proving that their emphasis on clothing and craftsmanship, works for them.

 

Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015/2016 - Giambattista ValliPhoto: Wenn
A report conducted by the Fédération Française de la Couture du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode (the governing body of Parisian fashion), concluded that Parisian designers collectively said “No” to See Now-Buy Now.

Not only does this keep an air of mystery and exclusivity to the collections, but also because this would be logistically impossible for some Parisian designers. “Behind a fashion show is an industry,” Federation President, Ralph Toledano told Women’s Wear Daily. “There is a supply chain. It takes several weeks to produce fabrics. It takes some weeks to sew and embellish the garments. The supply chain is something very precise and very organized. It’s not something you can ignore. It’s a reality.”

Global Fashion & Events Consultant and Director of Fashion Programing for PIER59 STUDIOS, Christina Neault agrees, “I think when you’re talking about higher end designers who have a longer lead time on fabrics, and the way things are made, and the price points, I don’t see those brands going see now, buy now,” she told StyleBlazer. “I don’t think it’s even possible.”

And then you hop across the pond where RTW Fashion Week has gotten downright confusing. What was once a trade show for designers to show their upcoming collections to editors, and buyers has become a free-for-all.

The formula for a successful Ready To Wear show these days is:
Invite A-list celebrities to sit front row
Dress said celebrities in your latest collection
Create huge buzz on social media to gain attention for the show
Let the people at home in on the action via live stream

 

Wenn Photo: Wenn 

This all sounds like a good idea in theory.

The more people who see the show, the more clothes they’ll sell, right? Well that is until designers realized that these new consumers want to buy what they see on the runway when they see it. Mainstream audiences don’t care about or fully understand the importance of the lead time that goes from conception to production. They see a Kardashian/Jenner in it, and they want it ASAP.

This is a great opportunity for brands that have a reasonable introductory price point, and who can take measures to shorten their lead time.  Hence, aspirational brands like Rebecca Minkoff, and Donna Karen can take advantage of this new business model.

“I think See now-Buy Now works for a lot of designers, especially those aspirational designers,” Neault told StyleBlazer.

London-based designers like Burberry, Tom Ford, and Mulberry are also joining in the wave. But, we have to wonder if the lead time continues to shrink, won’t we start to see a decline in Ready To Wear designer’s ability to effectively create unique products?  When the bottom line becomes the main focus, doesn’t art suffer?  This doesn’t necessarily apply in the realm of couture, because their market is small, informed, and respectful of the process.

“Our clientele is educated and informed on how the system works,”  Toledano told Women’s Wear Daily.  Which means the couture shows have the option to produce a much simpler affair where the clothes are the focus. The Chanel Couture show this season, for example, featured an old school vibe. Every guest had a front row seat, and there was a much more intimate feel. The focus was on the clothing, the design, and the art. There were little to no gimmicks or tricks to draw lots of media coverage, because their customers are already paying attention. This is a huge contrast to Lagerfeld’s Ready To Wear shows (remember the whole grocery store thing and the feminist protest?).

So what does this all mean?  Fashion Week is going to be reeeeaaaallllllyyyy…interesting with a hodgepodge of different business models, locations, and consumers.

If history and the aforementioned facts have taught us nothing, it’s that in fashion, what Paris says, goes.

The post Is Couture Week The Only True Fashion Week? appeared first on StyleBlazer.


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Bobble Up the latest single from Yung Barry is available on all platforms now

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Yung Barry’s “Bobble Up” from “Grade 1” is a celebration of life, love, and endless possibilities. With sun-kissed beats and irresistible charm, it transports you to a summer festival’s energy. Yung Barry’s signature style blends seamlessly with pulsating rhythms, creating an experience impossible to resist. “Bobble Up” isn’t just music; it’s an invitation to embrace freedom, joy, and the feeling of endless summer. Let go, embrace the rhythm, and let “Bobble Up” be your soundtrack to summer adventures. Experience the magic today and let Yung Barry take you on a unique musical journey.

Spotify Track: https://open.spotify.com/track/3MaUU0ZmLH9aShY87Riptv?si=5d846d8ada2744a1
Instagram: @yungbarry_official
Label: Markey Muzik

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New Video: The LAP Ft. Young Buck – Tokyo

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The LAP teams up with Young Buck for their new music video “Tokyo.” Watch above via YouTube and follow them on Instagram. Directed by WhoShotJimmie.

The LAP is a dynamic rap duo comprised of two childhood friends, Gorgy and HDR. Both hailing from Dunlap, Tennessee, they bonded over their love for hip-hop and began writing and recording music together in their teenage years.

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Award Winning Entrepreneur Mama Sue Taylor Talks Being A Cannabis Pioneer & Resource For The Elderly Community

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Sue "Mama Sue" Taylor

Sue Taylor “Mama Sue”, is a pioneer in the space of wellness and cannabis. Breaking barriers as the first black woman to open and operate a dispensary in Berkeley, California, she has been featured in Forbes, CNN, ABC7, Black Enterprise, MSN and several other publications sharing her incredible journey through cannabis. As she is one of the most influential women in cannabis she continues to utilize her platform to debunk any negativity surrounding the healing plant. As a mother, grandmother, entrepreneur, and advocate, Sue Taylor has made it her mission to be a resource to the elderly community through her Mama Sue Wellness tinctures and series of educational events.

I had the pleasure and honor of speaking with Sue after she was presented the Lifetime Achievement Award from Grammy Award Winning singer Erykah Badu at the 2024 Women in Cannabis Awards. Check it out below.

Sue Taylor Interview

What does it mean to you being a cannabis advocate and how did you get your start in the cannabis industry?

Sue Taylor: If someone had told me 17 years ago that I would be working in the cannabis industry I would have never believed them. I did not choose this, it chose me. My son lured me into the business by convincing me that this is a way for me to have my spiritual wellness center that I have always wanted and that intrigued me. I saw that it was needed because of how I took care of my body when I began to age and I knew the pharmaceutical approach wasn’t working way back then. As I said yes to work with Cannabis, I was actually scared and frightened by it due to the movie Reefer Madness. People in my generation were always told weed was a drug and it was always black people or hispanics and the weed devil and a lot of craziness.

This deterred my generation from cannabis because we simply do not break rules and it was deemed federally illegal. As an African American woman you know there is a stigma around us. I am already judged for being a black woman and I don’t want to be judged again! Being black I am judged everyday even still to this day, so to be taking on something that is extremely stigmatized was scary. But when my son told me I could have my Sue Taylor Wellness facility, I said okay let’s give it a try. Even though I was scared, I knew it was something I had to do to improve the quality of my life. If your dream doesn’t scare you a little bit your dream is not big enough. I was so scared but I was not willing to give up, which has allowed me to live my dream in real time.

Not only are you a cannabis advocate but you are also a pioneer. Can you share with me your vision for your Farmacy dispensary as you are the first and only black woman to own and operate a dispensary in Berkeley?

ST: The journey to opening Farmacy Berkeley was not an easy one. It took us 17 years to get things going. However, I was granted a permit to open Farmacy Berkeley because I had a special niche. Mine was geared to the needs of seniors. I also did my own lobbying to the city council and the mayor. I did it because we really didn’t have the money to do it and we are not equity people. We used our family’s money to get things accomplished. I had another key component Brittany that I want to share. When I went in, they could see that I genuinely cared for humankind. It wasn’t about me. And it really wasn’t just about cannabis. I just saw cannabis as one tool to help people. My pioneer work has helped with the stigma that surrounds cannabis. Recently I received the Lifetime Achievement at the Women in Cannabis Awards for my advocacy work and have also received an advocacy award from Oaksterdam University.

I have been very successful at helping to eliminate the stigma because I don’t fit the mold. I’m a former Catholic school principal. I am also a commissioner on aging. I was the commissioner on aging for Alameda County, where Farmacy Berkeley is located. On top of that, I am certified by the state of California to teach the cannabis program to nurses and help them obtain credits toward the yearly certifications that they need. I’ve had that certification for five years or more. It’s amazing to do that. It has been quite a journey for me. I have also been successful simply because I genuinely care.

When we opened up Farmacy Berkeley, we were open for one month, then the pandemic stopped everything. They sent all seniors home because people were afraid I was going to get covid. So we went away from it and then came back. But before I really got into business, I was teaching seniors. I had a community room where I would educate seniors free of charge, just come in and talk. I even did meditation classes. I did a lot of things there as well. Then that all stopped because of the pandemic. But I want you to be clear on this, we were opened up after we got the license.

How did Cannabis change your life?

ST: When I saw the way cannabis was positively impacting the lives of everyone around me that I was working with, that’s when I became open to cannabis. When I started off, I would not touch it, I was simply just doing the work. But after time, people kept coming to me saying that they were no longer using canes, wheelchairs or medication anymore. Seeing the progress in those people, I began to change my mind and became open to cannabis to help with pain or to help me sleep.

I started to think “maybe my son was right this whole time”. I thought he was on drugs, but when I found out what he was doing things changed. He was attending Oaksterdam University learning the entrepreneur side of cannabis. 17 years ago, there were only dispensaries for medical patients and only three in the Berkeley area making the rules a lot stricter. Its incredible how much growth there has been in the industry and the opportunities it’s presenting in helping others, especially seniors. I continued to do the work, myself along with the many hardworking individuals in the cannabis industry see the benefits of being in the business.

What is your mission for helping the elderly connect to cannabis as you have your Mama Sue Wellness products that are specifically geared toward seniors?

ST: Those products were made with love for a group of people that most people have forgotten about. This means everything to me to be able to have wellness products that cater to my demographic.

Seniors mostly come to cannabis for two reasons, because they can’t sleep or they’re in pain. Thats what each tincture was crafted to help with, we have a sleep tincture made with high CBN and CBD and an extra strength tincture which is high-CBD to help with aches and pain. And we have more products coming very soon. These were made with seniors in mind, but I think I might have more young people using the Mama Sue products for sleep and anxiety because the relief tincture, you could use that during the day and still function. They won’t get you high.

What has it been like working with Glass House Brands?

ST: I’ve been a part of Glass House, for a little over 4 years. What many people don’t know is that in the process of building Farmacy Berkeley, we ran out of money. That is when Kyle, Graham and the Glass House team came in, we became partners and they put up the remainder of the money to help build out the dispensary to my specifications. Glass House also helped me develop my tincture products that I’ve always wanted, Mama Sue Wellness. They aligned with my values and are doing things right, that’s why I chose them.

I’m grateful to be part of the Glass House team, they really support my mission in helping change the stigma around cannabis. As a Brand Ambassador we work together to put together these educational events, I travel to our different dispensaries where I get to speak and answer questions for local seniors one on one.

You mentioned your Mama Sue products and how they’re kind of more so geared toward the senior community. What do you feel like is the most important thing about wellness when it comes to cannabis and debunking these misconceptions?

ST: To begin, it depends on the group of people you are talking to. For instance, when me and my fellow cannabis advocates needed to get something done as a cannabis group going up against the city and state, they would always suggest sending me to speak on the group’s behalf. They thought it was like some magic or something, but let me tell you what it was, Brittany. I looked at the cannabis industry and I looked at most of the people who were in that industry at that time. They looked like stoners. I did not. And I was not. And I made a conscious decision that every time I was representing cannabis, I would look like a lawyer. And that’s who they met. They said, oh, you are in the wrong place, lady. I said, no, I’m here for cannabis. I didn’t fit the mold. Brittany, when they looked at me, I didn’t fit their perception of what people who used cannabis look like. Does that make sense?

I know that recently you and Dreka Gates got a chance to connect, can you share the synergy and connection you two ladies share?

ST: It was amazing. It was one of my most amazing ‘Plants Over Pills’ interviews because we connected on so many levels, so many levels. I’ve never met a young person like that, that’s spiritually evolved like her, because she’s young, you know she’s young, she’s only 37. And we just talked like we knew each other. Wait till you see the interview, it’s on the Glass House YouTube channel. I’ve never conducted an interview like that before. The camera crew was saying, oh my God, they were amazed at how easily we connected, and we just kept talking and talking. We connected on such a high level, we’re both spiritual people, we’ve been through a lot, we believe in plant medicine for healing, and she’s now even opening her first dispensary in Mississippi. Dreka talks about all the challenges she went through to secure the permit. We had trouble in California and we’re the most progressive state there is, I can’t imagine Mississippi. We bonded over all of that, opening our first dispensary and our vision to expanding that into our wellness facilities.

What has been your experience with pills versus plants for healing?

ST: They tried to give me a pill during the pandemic. I’m a spiritual person, and I had anxiety and was having difficult nights of sleep, had so much fear, all that kind of stuff. So, I went to my doctor and she prescribed me pills. I said, you know, I’m not a pill taker. But for some reason she insisted that I just take it. So I took the pills home, I looked it up and researched them before I popped anything. You know what it said on the bottle, they were to help with schizophrenia. Schizophrenia! I called her immediately and relayed my findings to her. You know what her response to me was? Why are you questioning me? You are not a doctor. She said, I give that to all my patients that have anxiety. You know what my response to her was? “I am not all your patients, and I don’t take a pill for anything. You know that I don’t take a pill to manage my health so why would you give me something for schizophrenics? I am not schizophrenic.” So that was it. I had to start looking out for my own health, and wellbeing.

I always make this disclaimer, pills have their place. Pharmaceuticals are not bad. They are not bad for people who need them. Pharmaceutical drugs were made for temporary use. If you get into a car accident or going into operation for eight hours, yes pills are helpful. But most people are using pharmaceuticals just to manage their day to day lives. Like with high blood pressure, with high cholesterol, with even anxiety.You start taking pills for an operation, then you have high blood pressure, then 10, 15 years later, you’re still on those same pills and more. That’s not okay. We have to stay educated about our health and thankfully, our younger generation are getting better at understanding that. The younger generation just doesn’t take what people tell them. You guys research everything. I have three sons so I’m surrounded by all the young people all the time and they keep me sharp.

I just met another guy, he’s gonna open up a wellness facility because everybody is seeing the light, popping a pill is not going to get you healthy. If anything, it’s gonna deteriorate your body because it’s all about the money. Pharmaceutical approach to healthcare. They give politicians money so they continue to push pills on us. We have to look beyond. We have to think for ourselves and find more natural ways to heal and care for bodies, mind and spirit.

Brittany, as I look at your beautiful face today, with that beautiful skin, that beautiful complexion, you have to go within and do what’s best for Brittany. I don’t care what the doctors try to tell you. Trust yourself first, always.

To learn more about Mama Sue Taylor and her journey through cannabis, follow her on Instagram at @suetaylorwellness.

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